Rivett 1020S - Broken half nut gib

August 16, 2019, 11:01 pm

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I’ve never seen a gib on a half nut but hey, something new every day. When I got the lathe, as I was cleaning it, I found a piece of cast iron down in the base that appeared to mate with a dovetail. I figured it was from some piece of work done on the machine previously. No. Not so lucky. It was apparently half of the gib on the half nut mechanism.



If you look closely in this picture you’ll see the below the lead screw the gib is intact. Above, it’s missing and the shafts of the screws that were sheared off are still there. Luckily those screws were loose and easily removed.



The screw in the middle above is the head of the screw/bolt you can see at the bottom of the first picture. Not sure how any force acted on this to do this damage. The other two fragments are the remains of the other screws. Luckily I kept the piece I found in the bottom of the lathe.



Above you see the piece that was still bolted on and the piece I found in the bottom of the machine. They are obviously cast iron. With the forces as they are on this part I plan to just JB weld the two pieces together.


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Monarch 14C Spindle Clutch Mesh

August 17, 2019, 5:48 pm

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Hello monarch enthusiasts, I could use some guidance on how to approach the situation that I'm currently in with my new-to-me lathe.

I have a Monarch 14C that is in pretty good shape overall (could use a good cleaning though)but has a meshing issue between the Spindle Clutch and the Small Spindle Drive Gear. I am assuming the previous owner operated the lathe in reverse since all the clutch tangs in the headstock assembly slope away from the direction of rotation The contact surface may have fatigued then the two surfaces pushed away and damaged something in the linkage in addition to the gear and clutch tangs. Or they tried to engage the smaller gear while operating. Again, I'm making an assumption.

You can see in the attached photos how the tangs fully engage on the Large Spindle Drive Gear side but have more than 1/16 inch gap on the other side. You can also see that the Clutch Shifter Shaft Lever for the Spindle Clutch overshoots the Shifter Timing Pin. What you don't see is the excessive slop/movement between the Clutch Fork and its respective pivot shaft.

Is there a key or pin that could be sheared or damaged between the Clutch Fork and its respective shaft and won't let the clutch mesh further up the tangs of the spindle drive gear? Would the best approach be to completely disassemble the headstock?

Any observations and/or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

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10EE Tach Repair: before and after

August 18, 2019, 5:42 pm

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The tachometer on my 1942 10EE had the glass and hand missing, plus the dial was destroyed, as you can see here:



I spent most of the weekend rebuilding it:



Cal sent me a photo of an original dial, which I digitally cleaned up and then printed to size on paper, which was then glued to the dial plate. The original arbor had a pivot broken completely off, but fortunately, I also dabble in antique clocks and so could remake one. The new "glass" is acrylic. I spent some time buffing out the worst scratches in the bezels. Everything else was cleaned and lubricated. The original hand was white, but I found this red hand from a quartz clock in my box of scrap clock parts and adapted it. I like it better! Very visible.

Just for reference, here are the inside parts of the tach:

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Newbie question: if this an M-G motor?

August 19, 2019, 11:48 am

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I've been working from the top down on a 1942 10EE and today, pulled the coolant pump and the motor. I keep readying all these messages about the various motor types. What is this one? There isn't a tag anywhere on it. (I can see where the tag used to be.)

My plan is to pull it apart and clean/check the bearings.

Am I right in presuming that the front bearing on this motor gets lubricated from oil in the gear reduction box hung off the front?

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16CW lead screw adjustment

August 19, 2019, 1:51 pm

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Finally beginning to go though the CW16 that I got back in April and noticed that if I close the half nut on the lead screw, and move the carriage wheel, the lead screw has ~0.050" of play. You can clearly see the play is in the thrust bearings on the gear box (i.e. the lead screw moves with the carriage). The Monarch manual is sparse on details but does mention having to adjust this if the lathe cuts "drunken threads".

It's pretty obvious how to loosen the collars by the the gear box and tighten them, but I don't want to over tighten. What is the correct way to set this? Do I just snug up so there is no play, or is there a preload that's supposed to be there? Any thoughts would be appreciated as I do not want to damage the trust bearings.

Also, it's not yet obvious to me where to drain the head stock oil? Anyone recall where the drain plug is? Thinking I should change the oil before I put any time on the machine

Finally, any other thoughts on things to be checked before I start using this machine? Filled the apron and the oiler appears to be working.

Thanks, joel-

A shame to see this Old Monarch Lathe heading for the scrap bin,

August 22, 2019, 6:02 pm

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Good old made in USA iron,
Does anyone out there want to buy it?

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Monarch 14C Cross Feed Lock Collars (year 1942)

August 24, 2019, 7:36 pm

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Hello,

I was pulling apart the cross feed assembly and the lock collars fell out and I'm not quite sure the order they go back together. I think I've correctly put things back but I'd appreciate several sets of eyes before I reassemble. Also, why are there (3) lock collars with keyways but only one will engage the mating shaft and its key at a time? One will stay locked and the other two can spin on the shaft. See attached photos.

Thank you,

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Rivett 1020S For Sale - CL Ad

August 25, 2019, 9:12 am

≫ Next: 10EE backgear/speed-reducer bearing oil supply

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I have no association with this listing. Just came across it this morning browsing through listings. It’s in the Tulsa area. This probably isn’t on the radar since nowhere in the description does he mention it as a Rivett. He simply calls it a “collet lathe with tooling.” Apparently he’s asking $4K for it. Spindle appears to be rusted.

YouTube

Fab Machines Closing Shop Shear Lathe Roundo
Fab Machines Closing Shop Shear Lathe Roundo - business/commercial - by owner - sale



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10EE backgear/speed-reducer bearing oil supply

August 25, 2019, 3:27 pm

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In a different thread, I posited that the front motor bearing on my 10EE is lubricated by fluid in the backgear/speed-reducer. One person commented that it isn't. Now that I have the motor apart, I have to question this again.

Here is a photo of the rear of the speed reducer. It has a slot in the lower left that runs from the interior, and it is below the oil level in the box. If you fill the box according to the sight glass, oil will flow out of the slot.



The next photo is of the front of the motor. Notice it has a matching slot and a channel that runs to the bearing. (Red straw in photo shows the channel.)



It is interesting that the top edge of the "oil channel" in the motor appears to be ABOVE the oil level of the gear reducer, so if it was suppose to provide oil to the bear then something is not quite right. On the other hand, the rear bearing of the motor has a grease fitting, but the front has none. If the lubricant in the speed reducer was NOT intended to oil the front bearing, then how did it get lubed?

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Carriage stop rod Lufkin micrometer question

August 26, 2019, 12:14 pm

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My micrometer head is old and wobbly so I bought a very nice Lufkin 680 set off ebay, but I found out that there are obviously two versions of the Lufkin 680 head. The bottom one is off my lathe, the top one is the new one. It is obviously smaller, which I don't care about, but the threads are different, so it won't screw into my stop rod.

They both have "Lufkin 680" engraved on them. Is there some other identifying characteristic so I don't buy another wrong one off Ebay?

Anybody want a very nice Lufkin 680 inside micrometer set?

John

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Troubleshooting a Module Drive 10ee

August 26, 2019, 1:46 pm

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Bought about a year ago, life got in the way, finally biting the bullet on getting it running. Serial #48639, have a new manual from Monarch Sidney. It was reported running when removed from service (heh) with some speed control issues (heh).

The speed control pot feels crunchy and I'm waiting on a more electronically inclined friend to set up a test rig for the module diodes, so I'm testing operation with the module removed (which if I understand correctly should also take the iffy pot out of the equation).

Hooked up to mains 3-phase, the warmup timer seems to do what it should, the "control on" button engages PC, the c3j glows, and when I engage the ELSR carriage switch, three things happen:
1) the forward or reverse contactor engages (solidly as far as I can tell)
2) the QSD relay bounces and sparks
3) the c16's pulse as the QSD bounces

I haven't checked voltages yet, gonna wait and do that, along with diodes, under the eye of someone who's actually dug into HV circuits before.


Q1) The QSD seems to have a ton of free movement. It's (I think) the older style, with a big coil on its own phenolic plate. Found detailed pictures on other threads but don't recall seeing specs on contact distance or adjustment procedures. Any ideas (or any hey-dumbo-you-shoulda-looked-here's)?

Q2) Machine is hooked up through a 20a twist-lock, 60' of 4x10ga SO, and a 20a breaker - not going to be a permanent solution, but it seemed like it should allow for testing. Offhand, should I figure out a better feeder before moving ahead with troubleshooting?

Q3) Machine was listed as 3-phase and has 3-phase coolant pump, but the disconnect box had only 3 wire remnants - one per phase - and one was green. No ground/bond wire that I could discern. I wired each phase of my service and brought the ground wire to a case bolt ('cause that SO hookup is just a big extension cord, there's no conduit path to ground). This exact hookup is obviously temporary, but does either the original wiring scheme or my current hookup raise any red flags for basic testing? Should I check if it was re-wired for single phase and if so is anyone inclined to help me cheat on some diagram-reading?

Have a message out to the seller asking for more information and am hoping to catch Tim at Sidney tomorrow.

Down the road, pulling the carriage is the next mechanical task, but figuring out if I can make the drive work at all is the first order of business.

If anyone's still reading, any and all advice is welcome, and if not it's still been useful to get a record of where things stand. I'll be back either way :-)

And lastly, some pictures that I hope I've attached correctly!

Monarch 10ee drive ideas and solutions

August 26, 2019, 8:03 pm

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I recently acquired a 1943 10ee round dial. It came with a dc motor that had been upgraded maybe half way through its lifetime. It’s junk. It didn’t come with a back gear box. Now I’m doing a full rebuild and VFD ac motor upgrade. I have a 7.5 hp 1755 rpm 200 volt motor that I’d like to use. My original idea was to ratio the double wide “B” pulleys so that at 120 hertz the spindle would run at 2500 rpm. I set up the motor temporarily with the correct pulleys and a VFD that is too small (because it was one that I have). I’m not convinced that I will have the torque that is needed at lower spindle speeds. I’m toying with the idea of a jack shaft to reduce spindle speed and increase torque. And possibly 240 hertz to get 2500 max spindle speed. Thoughts?

10EE with inop speed control for sale (ebay)

August 27, 2019, 3:51 pm

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I'm browsing ebay, and found a 10EE not too terribly far away which ... from ebay pictures looks to be recently repainted (but who knows, of course). The listing says "some electrical work needed", and the seller further described that as "The electric speed control is not working. The lathe goes straight to high speed."

If I were shopping for a 10EE, would this even be worth considering? Monarch 10EE Vintage Precision 10" x 20" ToolRoom Lathe | eBay

Spare '42 Round Dial for sale

August 28, 2019, 4:00 am

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This is my spare 10EE that I picked up in a package deal last year.
I can provide more pictures upon request.
It has the taper attachment, but missing the bracket as usual.
There is no compound, only a massively oversized tool post.
No belt cover.
The M-G set up has been altered at one point. It appears a bit different than my stock 10EE.
I've never wired this one or ran it, but there again I can get you pics of the internal upgrades.
It appears it was still wired to 480vac and functioning like this for some time.
I could part this out, but I don't really have the time.
Located near St. Louis.
1500 OBO
PM me.

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Moving EE, low ceiling, advice please

August 30, 2019, 7:03 am

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I have an opportunity to get another EE, but it is in a building with a ~9 foot ceiling height. helped move a bridgeport CNC in this very building, using a forklift, with me following along muttering 'I don't like this, I don't like this' because it was sat on the forks of a forklift. I always pick from the top, but ceiling height is too low. All was fine until the front tire of the forklift hit the truck bed, it sagged and over she went.

Luckily I happened to own spares of the few things that broke, so alls well that ends well, but I am not anxious for a repeat performance.

So, what to use to lift a EE and move it through a 100 feet of serpentine hallway to a loading dock?

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1962 Modular drive 10EE shuts down during RPM increse

August 30, 2019, 8:36 am

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I have a 1962 10ee. I just replaced a burnt dual rheostat pot that controls the spindle RPM, but now I have another issue. When I turn on the spindle the lowest RPM is around 950 rpm and then I can rotate the speed control know about 90 degrees before the rpm increase then at about 270 degrees and around 2200 RPM the lathe completely shuts off.

Video of lathe shut down YouTube
Video of tubes YouTube

One of the larger tubes looks to be fluttering right before it shuts down. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

1968 Modular 10ee missing a transformer ?

September 1, 2019, 6:38 pm

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1968 10ee Modular purchased condition unknown. While checking a capacitor mentioned in another post as often a problem source, the outline of a transformer base appears, but no obvious connections for one. This is accessed from the rear of the lathe, in the box with other transformers and a terminal strip. No power applied yet, still gathering other missing parts. Monarch records show machine as 220 volt as delivered, but currently connection is 480 volt.

Looking for info on what transformer may mount here....picture below.

Side note, additional picture of external transformer, guessing 480 to 220/240 ?

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10EE Danfoss Varispeed A2000 adjustment:

September 2, 2019, 5:17 am

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Wondered if anyone has any experience with adjusting the max speed on these. Only manual I could find online doesn't quite match up to the board that I have. In that manual it just describes adjusting the Max rpm pot but mine doesn't have that pot only Range and Gain. My lathe originally would max out at 1,25rpm but only seems to be getting up to 950rpm these days. Anyways would appreciate any input that you have and can I hurt anything by adjusting those two pots?

Thanks,
Nick

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Factory Rebuilt Round Dial on eBay

September 2, 2019, 7:52 am

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Pic of the new badge is fuzzy, but it looks like they did it in 1988. I assume that they added the DRO while they had it.

Help ID these accessories?

September 3, 2019, 4:12 pm

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Picked up a monarch lot for pretty much just the steady rest, so I'll likely be selling most of these pictured to recoup some of the cost in the lot...

Wondering if I can get some help ID'ing some items? I think I know what the majority are, but figure I'd ask the experts.

-The faceplate with the center in it, is that standard? I'm just a hobbiest but haven't seen that before.
-What would the smaller ones with slots be used for?
-Thinking the next two are for threaded lathe chucks? Quite a long thread on them though.
-Are both the follower rests for a 10ee? I know monarch made a couple different versions.
-Last one I'm guessing is a carriage stop

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